Indonesia: Wayang in Jakarta

This post is part of a series called Peace, Love & Nasi Goreng
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Diego here. I’m flying solo in Jakarta today and decided to explore the fascinating world of Javanese Wayang, the centuries-old Indonesian art of storytelling through puppeteering. The best way to learn about this is visiting the Wayang Museum in Jakarta. I am a storyteller by nature so I was very interested in learning more about how this popular method of entertainment that has permeated the Indonesian culture.

A whole new world

I was surprised to discover such a vast world of puppeteering styles seen in everything from the materials used for crafting the puppets to the types of stories they tell. Some of the tales are of epic superheroes battling their arch nemesis while others simply convey everyday fables. Some puppets aim to entertain their audience through the use of comedy, music, and singing while other puppets can be quite serious. The dalangs (puppet masters) don’t shy away from the complicated topics of life, death, love, war and oppression – and some of these narratives can even take a spiritual or mystical dimension depending on the characters present and the story being conveyed.

Wayang Kulit

There are many Wayang techniques, but the most common is the use of shadow puppets (wayang kulit). Each two-dimensional puppet is expertly crafted from buffalo hide in a meticulous process that can take up to a year to complete. This method of carving, cutting, and carefully painting each character is considered to be the oldest freestanding puppet form. A Wayang Kuilt show is performed in darkness with a dim light behind each character. The puppets maintain their position on stage moving only their arms as they tell their tale.

While I wasn’t able to see an actual show, apparently it’s quite a production. Each puppet has his/her own live music as they enter, exit, and speak. I was told that the dalangs are able to create a world of illusion that allows the audience to immerse themselves in the stories and laugh, weep, and feel what each character feels. Some of the dalangs are able to sing, recite poetry, and speak in different voices as they perform.

Rod Puppets

Rod puppets are another common form of Wayang. These productions do not require darkness and are often more colorful. My guide was a Indonesian teenager and she was particularly keen on these characters. Some of them are crowd favorites such as Ghatotkaca and his sidekicks, Raden Bima, Golek Sunda, and Golek Gatutkaca. They are the ever-present forces of good that defend our world against the forces of evil. My guide was particularly excited as she discussed the superpowers that these characters have. For example, Ghatotkaca can fly like Superman; and Raden Bima can grow claws like Wolverine and can turn into different animal forms. Golek Sunda can turn into a large and powerful Orangutan. Apparently Indonesian children have been known to loose their composure when the superheroes display their powers onstage. I would have enjoyed seeing that.

Topengs

The last part of the museum focuses on topengs (Indonesian masks). These are central to an Indonesian dance where topengs are worn to personify specific characters, deities or forces. They are also used in some forms of theater. Performers wear the masks along with costumes, and use singing, poetry and music to present the stories of kings, heroes, myths and warriors.

I loved learning about the Indonesian art of storytelling and puppeteering. In a time when the Internet and electronics take center stage across the world, Indonesians make room for this very special form of theater and cherish it – young and old alike. What a cool way to share stories, laughter, tears, and history!

Wayang depicted in a painting of the epic war between good (on the left) and evil (on the right).